I arrived in Lagos a little nervous after a layover in London, wondering if my COVID paperwork was in order for me to enter the country. I had no portable wifi with me, I would be arriving after Bàbá Jamel and Ṣelewa, and it was my first time in Nigeria. There was plenty to be nervous about. After getting off the plane, first waiting in the wrong line for customs (I was with the Nigerians), then filling out my second customs form at the agent’s desk (I didn’t get one before) while avoiding the light request for a tip from said agent, I made it through unscathed. I was fortunately able to connect with Bàbá through the airport wifi so I knew he was there waiting for me. I eventually found him and Ṣelewa, near the one visible place for food in the airport. It was a relief to see familiar faces. We walked through a sea of people looking to “help us with our bags” while leaving the airport. It was a LOT to take in when you have just arrived in a foreign country. We eventually found our driver and our guide, Bàbá Isha and Ademola, respectively and were on our way to the air bnb for the night.
The following day we set to drive out to Osun state where all the festivities would take place. I didn’t really get to experience Lagos that first night, but I did experience the grey eggs we made for breakfast the following morning. Everybody was scared. We never saw eggs like that before. Between my father’s STRICT forewarning to NEVER drink the tap water in Nigeria and these scary eggs, I was off to a great start.
It took a couple hours to drive from Lagos to Osun state. The honking was as plentiful as the dust and exhaust fumes. My covid mask really came in handy here. Appartently people honk to let others know they are passing. My New York brain thought everyone was just rude at first. The roads were full of cars and people walking with any and everything you might need on the ride. Want some water, we got you. Random snacks to keep the ride going, we got you. Bottled water was like gold on the drive from Lagos to Osun state.
When we finally got to the compound, I got to meet Bàbá Ifa Kayọde Faniyi, the man I would know from that point on as Big Baba. He was big both in stature and reputation. He is the Ogbongbon of Osun state which means he’s a high ranking ÍFA priest within the state. He warmly welcomed us into his home. It was an honor to prostrate before him as well as his wives who are amazing priestesses in their own right. In Yoruba culture, one prostrates before priests and priestesses and most of all, elders. It is very important to honor one’s elders. Big Baba’s mother also lives on the compound, so we got to prostrate before her many times and see her beautiful smile. She has a beautiful spirit. Even though she spoke no English, it was a pleasure whenever I heard her speak. I could feel the wisdom in her words without understanding the context or translation.
While on the compound, all of our needs were taken care of. Every meal was cooked for us at Big Bàbá’s house by his daughters and niece, Bouqui. Bouqui was a gangster in the kitchen and every meal was a 10. Every day we heard a familiar phrase in which only the last word would change, “What do you want for breakfast? Lunch? Dinner?” I didn’t really want any meat, so my requests often included fish of some sort. Because of that fact, I believe our first meal was fish and jollof rice. Eventually we had Egusi with pounded yam, pepper soup, an amazing Jamaican stew with dumplings, and the famous pof pof. Pof Pof is a donut type of food that is perfection as a breakfast meal with eggs. Normally we would have eggs and fruit for breakfast with some type of bread. A loaf of “the good” bread would come with no slices, so you have to rip your amount off to eat with the eggs—delicious.
On our first night at the compound, we learned what would be the schedule of our initiations. First would come the ÍFA initiations set to take place at the grove, followed by my Ṣàngó and Ṣelewa’s Obatala initiations. We knew nothing about what was to come other than our heads would be shaved (yup BALD), our clothes would be discarded for a breakage to leave behind what was and make way for what is, and that we would be taken care of. We were as ready as we were gonna get and most important of all, we made it.
